The city centre is a designated conservation area and a stunning Norman cathedral dominates the skyline, but there’s a lot more to Durham than first meets the eye, discovers Tina Walsh.
1. The best cathedral on planet earth
No visit to Durham is complete without exploring the cathedral and castle, a stunning Unesco World Heritage site. Founded after the Norman conquest of 1066, it now houses University College, student quarters and a refectory straight out of Tom Brown’s Schooldays. Travel author Bill Bryson, who is also Durham University’s Chancellor, wasn’t wrong when he described Durham Cathedral as “the best cathedral on planet Earth”. 0191 386 4226; durhamcathedral.co.uk
2. Artists in residence
Tucked down one of Durham’s many “vennels” (or alleyways) along the banks of the River Wear, Fowlers Yard is a buzzing creative co-op and part of Durham’s growing cultural quarter. Built in an old stables, the workshops are home to around 10 artists, including photographers, designers, glassblowers and goldsmiths (see tapestry by Chrissie Morgan). fowlersyarddurham.co.uk
3. Glorious gardens
Crook Hall Gardens, set in four glorious acres of land in the grounds of a medieval hall, are just a short walk from Durham’s market place but a world away from the hustle and bustle of the town centre. There are 12 gardens in all, containing hundreds of species of trees, plants and flowers, including ancient fruit trees, rose and lavender bushes and hyacinths. 0191 384 8028; crookhallgardens.co.uk
4. Boutique chic
Durham’s only boutique hotel opened at the end of last year and makes a welcome respite from the usual chains and B&Bs. Grafton House is in a conservation area at the top of South Street, one of Durham’s most exclusive roads. It’s worth a visit even if you’re not staying here—the restaurant is open to non-residents and is quickly making a name for itself. 0191 375 6790; grafton-house.co.uk
5. Eastern promise
The excellent Oriental Museum shouldn’t be overlooked by visitors to Durham—it’s one of the best examples of its kind in the country. Devoted to the art and archaeology of China, Egypt, North Africa, India and Japan, it showcases more than 30,000 artefacts. There are antiques, photographs, clothing, even an Egyptian mummy, and, among the touring exhibits, a fascinating display of Chinese photography that runs until 30 August. 0191 334 5694; dur.ac.uk/oriental.museum