In a list of the coolest attractions in the UK, all but one—the Eden Project—was in London, which is great news for the city. But what some people rate, others hate so should we take it as gospel? Not according to our experts, who each have a very different take on what makes the capital cool
Fashion journalist Ellen Burney
As a Mancunian, my musical roots—cue The Charlatans, Stone Roses, The Smiths etc—couldn’t be deeper rooted in my smug hometown. But, when it comes to fashion, I bang the London drum loud and proud. My sartorial choices are never-ending, and that sums up capital cool for me. Living in North London, however, means travelling way out west really needs to be worth it. So, is the new Westfield shopping centre in Shepherd’s Bush as good as it sounds? Most definitely—primarily because of its Topshop branch, across three floors, but also because I can pop into Hersheson’s Blowdry Bar for a speedy do while I’m there. West London is also home to some of my vintage faithfuls: Retro Woman in Notting Hill for high-end designer seconds and, of course, Portobello Market. Last week I dug out some amazing vintage Chelsea boots for £20, and now my new patent Dr Martens sit alone, discarded. For vintage shopping I also love Bang Bang in Fitzrovia (for designers), Rokit in Camden (great for 70s coats, belts and plaid shirts), Episode in Chalk Farm, Absolute Vintage and the giant warehouse store Beyond Retro in Shoreditch for delectable one-offs.
Central London is a girl’s best friend whether you’re meagre or minted. With the credit crunch making the statement accessory increasingly important, I headed to the new, flagship, four-storey Urban Outfitters on Oxford Street recently for leopard-print hair scrunchies and quirky charm necklaces. When I’m on a budget, I avoid the designer floor—a haven of labels including Luella, Karen Walker, Thomas Burberry and Anna Sui. When feeling flash, I head to Mayfair for Luella—the veiled hair bows are a must this season—and Marc Jacobs for their well-priced T-shirts. Dover Street Market, down the road, is the coolest place to shop for labels; think House of Holland, Christopher Kane—and the world’s most exclusive—Rodarte, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin and Valentino. My favourite is PPQ but the Mayfair store closed last year. Now I head north to stock up on the label from Powder boutique in Crouch End and My Sugarland, a new boutique in Islington by stylist Zoe Lem.
Restaurant reviewer Stephen Emms
Stephen Emms I’ve always considered cool a highly subjective affair, and no more so than when related to all things comestible. After all, one person’s salty oyster is quite literally another’s poison. But “London” and “cool” can’t be discussed in the same sentence without shining a spotlight on London’s dazzling culinary—and, for that matter, nocturnal—scene. What’s so genuinely cool about it is its healthy eclecticism.
London is the home of the gastropub, and you still can’t beat the original, The Eagle, which opened in 1991 on Farringdon Road. Other must-tries are The Lansdowne in Primrose Hill, for its lively crowd and locally sourced food, and The Anchor & Hope in Waterloo, for pre-theatre (Old/Young Vic) dining.
And what about real boozers? If you just want crisps with your pint, The Blue Post in Soho’s iconic Berwick Street, with its dingy lighting and hip guzzlers, is a winner; while, in Clerkenwell, the tiny Jerusalem Tavern boasts a brilliant range of St Peter’s ales; but top choice—and every visitor to London should make a pilgrimage here at least once—is the Sir Richard Steele in Chalk Farm: check out the very bohemian interior and mad-for-it crowd (and plenty of celeb-spotting).
It’s harder to say what makes a restaurant cool. If it’s eccentricity, then why not try Les Trois Garcons, an opulent dining room packed with stuffed animals, crystal chandeliers and all manner of antique curiosities (not to mention excellent Anglo-French cuisine). If it’s unpretentious Michelin-starred excellence, at very reasonable prices, book ahead for Soho’s Arbutus or its more stylish sister gaff in Mayfair, Wild Honey, both of which revolutionised wine lists in London by offering 250ml carafes (allowing the customer to mix ‘n’ match with different courses). But for sheer, undiluted fabulousness grab yourself a night at the legendary Bistrotheque in Bethnal Green, which showcases delicious modern British tucker—and the downstairs bar hosts legendary cabaret and alternative nights.
But let’s face it, the credit crunch is all about the resurgence of the BYO diner, and my number one must-visit is retro Soho Italian joint, the Lorelei. Entering is like stepping into the 1950s—think jazz bars, quiffs, and spluttering coffee machines—and you’ll be served pizzas at formica tables, all for a ridiculously cheap £5. In fact, it’s so cool that—yes, even in 2009—the toilets are outside. Brrrrr.
Cultural connoisseur Ian Johns
“If Paris was the capital of the 19th century and New York of the 20th, London is shaping up to be the capital of the 21st century,” declared New York Magazine last year. “In short, New York is cardiganed Woody Allen and London is party-dressed Lily Allen.”
That celebratory buzz is evident in the way you can come across art and live performance in the most unexpected of places, which is easily one of the coolest things about this fair city.
I’ve heard great world music under the beady eye of a giant fossilised fish at the Natural History Museum. I’ve cycled along an art trail of pavilions designed by international artists for London’s Royal Parks. I’ve enjoyed great stand-up comedy at the Museum of London surrounded by fascinating archaeological finds.
And, although I wasn’t so lucky, last November some passers-by stumbled across free works left by urban artist Adam Neate around London’s boroughs.
This dynamic cultural mix and match adds to the city’s cosmopolitan vibe. It embraces foreign culture, from artists at Tate Modern to international theatre seasons at the Barbican Centre and the latest dance troupes at Sadler’s Wells.
Diverse musical talent also makes London an exciting place with its orchestras and clubs and venues catering for every taste, from aspiring bands at the many in-store gigs hosted by Pure Groove Records and Rough Trade East to the current chart-toppers at The O2 in North Greenwich.
Enjoy a drink at the British Film Institute’s stylish cafe at the BFI Southbank and you’ll not only be surrounded by great cinema, a fascinating film archive and exhibition space, but also be at the heart of the South Bank.
Thanks to its cluster of cultural institutions, including the Southbank Centre, National Theatre, Old Vic (under the artistic directorship of Kevin Spacey) and Young Vic, you’re within walking distance of world-class art, music, dance and theatre.
When the listings magazine Time Out began life back in 1968, it was an eight-page affair intended as a comprehensive guide to going out in London. Now each issue is more than 150 pages. Culturally the capital seems a whole lot busier now.